Sunday, February 26, 2012

Short Story. Lovely the Restavek.


Lovely
The following story is a glance into a day in the life of a child domestic slave in Haiti, locally referred to as a Restavek. There is an estimated 300 000 children forced to perform domestic chores in Haitian homes. These children are taken from poor families in the rural areas of Haiti and sold to poor families in the city. They are systematically abused, often beaten and abused both sexually and verbally.÷”ewq. Many run away to end up on the streets where a dangerous life of theft, hunger and homelessness await them. 
The child shifts in the space between the ground she lays on and the base of the bed above her. Her limp body stirs and she scrapes herself along the floor, and lifts herself out, into the small room. It is not yet light outside, but the dense darkness of the night has waned, and the ether is still, lingering like the pause between two breaths. Soon the sun will climb the sky, it will glister through the day, beating, bleaching, warming and spawning. It will beam through the cracks of huts made of corrugated iron and awaken. It will warm the rugged skin of pigs muzzling through waste-adorned desiccated riverbeds. It will animate legions of bacteria in the pools, the sewers, the mires in the streets, endangering the lives of those who have no other alternative but to drink and wash in the only source of water obtainable. It will bring lustre to tribulation, to the untold tragedies of survivors and of fighters, to an earth shaken by trauma, mourning and adversity. 
In ceremonious silence, Lovely unfetters the lock on the door and steps out into the semi-darkness. The rich stillness is fragmented by a crowing cock, and the distant whisper of a helicopter, obscured by the gloom of aurora. She hoists a fractured pail into her arms and scurries through the narrow passages winding through the modest shacks of the Port-au-Prince slum. Crossing vendors on her path, she lowers her gaze, as they push past her and carry on their droning calls. The firm soil under her bare feet turns to fractured rocks, and she expertly steps through them, without demur, making her way down the dirt track to a tent encampment below. A large four by four rocks past her, slowly navigating the terrain, jerking across the ruts, and leaving her in a pall of dust. The dust bonds to her skin, and clings to her eyelashes and hair, as if the ground that has thus swallowed so many souls will not renounce ownership over those left living. The tent camp is flickering with life. Children with bare bottoms run around in circles on the grit, laughing through the apparent starvation that their distended stomachs starkly reveal. The first rays of sunshine are illuminating the camp and warming the wet mud on the road skirting the tents. Lovely strides straight through the quagmire and disregards the putrid smell emanating from below her feet. 
There are already other children at the water pump. She waits. All these children dressed in rags, adorned with scars, with earnest miens spread across their faces, do not look at each other, but pump water into their buckets and hasten off into the morning light.
Lovely returns along the path with the pale of water resting on her head, steadying it with one hand. The smell of cooking oil floats in the warm gentle wind like a soft maternal breath. No one looks at the young girl as she strides past, her skinny legs mechanically following her fixed gaze on the track ahead. Her brow is dotted with sweat. The droplets run down her face, following the line of a scar stretching from her forehead to her cheek. She rests the bucket on the floor beside the entrance to the small shack. “Lave ti bebe a”, she hears a voice call from inside. She steps tentatively into the room. The darkness inside blinds her for an instant. Her eyes adjust and she sees a woman sitting on the edge of the bed, holding a naked baby. A teenage girl stands in one corner, pulling on a school uniform, and a young boy lays motionless on the bed. Lovely hunches her frame and, looking at the ground, lifts the baby from the woman’s arms and takes her outside to wash her, as she had been told to do.
The sun, aloft in the sky, is like a spotlight on the streets, slums and tent cities of Port-au-Prince. Groups of street children frantically run from car to car, armed with rags, washing windscreens, begging for a few gourdes. Two young boys, their skin and clothes grey from  dust and dirt, dart towards a white pick-up truck, whose sides are boldly branded with the letters ‘UN’, as it slowly approaches a set of traffic-lights. The boys start polishing the dark tinted windows with scraps of cloth and hold out their palms, rubbing their bellies. The lights change to green and the car moves away. A stream of traffic follows, and the boys stay motionless in the middle of the road, avoiding the scrapes from brightly coloured tap-tap vehicles, and quickly sidestepping swerving motorbikes.
Lovely watches them from across the road, clutching tightly onto the money in her hand, the notes greasily melting into her palm. She has been recipient to the attention of these boys before on her way to the market, and has suffered the penalty for returning home empty handed. As she steals glances at their feet in battered rubber sandals, their legs bruised and scared, their heads of hair a sooty grey and their faces worn and pained, she envies them. Some of them had been like her once. They had been compelled by fear, terrorised into an unrelenting motivation to keep working, keep alert, to always remain silent. Now they possessed nothing. They slept on the roadsides, amid the piles of trash, attempting to remain hidden from the gangs, police and wild dogs that drift through the streets at night. They drank water from the sewers, stole, begged or scoured the rubbish heaps for food. But unlike Lovely they had freedom. For most, their lives would be curtailed prematurely, and though filled with hardship, their waking moments would be free from the daily turmoil of systematic abuse.
The market is always busy. The sun is beating down on the sweating bodies surrounding Lovely as she rushes through the crowd, stepping on the flattened empty wrappers, packets, boxes the earth is carpeted with. Clothes hang from open stalls, school books are displayed neatly along the ground, aubergines adorn buckets next to bananas, dusty sweet potatoes and plantains. Music blares from a loudspeaker that sits surrounded by more speakers and shabby looking radios piled on a table. Women sit next to their small collection of live chickens and buckets full of medicinal pills. Lovely glances from seller to seller as she marches through the market, and suddenly the blasting colours of each stall turn to grey and black. Lovely stops and steps towards the charcoal sellers and it is as if she is stepping into a black and white photograph. She hands the grey woman two coins in exchange for a bag of coal.
Back at her master’s house, Lovely prepares food. She serves up the tchen tchen*, to the three kids and woman in her household and waits patiently sitting by the entrance to the house as they eat, hoping there will be enough leftovers for her.
The light over Port-au-Prince is turning to a subdued haze, as if the sun is jaded from a long day of burning so forcefully. The dust and the twilight mantle the city and the luscious green hills in the south, and the arid dry hills of the north. Music is still pumping through the bumpy, cracked streets, merging with the blaring of the motorbike horns, the shouts of the street vendors, the distant shrill chimes of water trucks. The water glistening in the bay glints stars of pink, orange, purple and gold. The narrow, winding streets of the slums nestled on the southern hill, Carrefour Feuilles**, will be the first to be plunged into night as the sun disappears behind the mount, and drops into the sea. Food carts will begin to emerge from in darkness. Trays of fried bannan and pate*** will borrow the light of a glowing bulb on a breadfruit-juice stall, a loud generator perched on the side of the stand powering a single blender. In the darkness, candle-light will flicker, shadows and silhouettes will move across the glowing embers from the vendors’ fires as they grill chicken and corn. Fires will spread through the piles of trash and glow through the billowing smoke. The dark streets will swallow up the people, the dogs, the houses. Whole neighbourhoods will sit unlit, waiting for a chance flick of a switch that will illuminate a section at a time, for an hour, maybe two. The dark streets of Petionville**** will be lined with candles like a church aisle, as women sit on the road with a single burning flame each, shining a warm glow on their wares. The headlights of cars and motorbikes will reveal, for an instant, what the dark depth conceals, people walking on the footpath, stationary moto-taxi drivers gathered on a street corner laughing, couples sitting on a wall beside a broken set of swings. The edges of tent camps will be lit by the flickering flames burning fires on the streets and the dim glow from cooking stoves heating cooking oil and barbecues. 
Then, little by little the candles will be blown out, and the fires will die. By nine o’clock the streets will be almost empty. The traffic jams will have dissipated. The taptaps***** will soon stop running. Doors and gates will be locked. Only some cars will be left on the dark roads, slowly edging through police checks as armed guards will stop passing vehicles, clutching tightly on to their rifles. Intimidation and fear will replace the flickering glow of the candles. The only people remaining in the streets will be the intrepid, the feared, the street-kids. 
Lovely will finally lay her body down to rest, in her place under the bed. She will go to sleep long after everyone else, kept up, still working, into the night. As she lies on her sheet of cardboard, she will close her eyes and try to forget. 
She wills to forget the disregard in the eyes of her peers, the hand that fed her, as if she is a wretched dog, the strike of the leather belt as it swept and broke her skin. She banishes the fear and grief from her tired thoughts. Pushes away the memory of the time spent with her neighbour that day, the man who strips her from what little feeling of beauty she feels she holds, like a rough hand tearing away the fragile petals of a wilting wildflower. She quells the faint memory of her mother, her home by the sea, her brothers and sisters and how they would play in the dusty street, then let the waves on the pebbled beach swirl around their ankles. She is haunted by the memory of the sound of her own laughter, of her mother’s voice, of her own voice, as they sounded so golden, spoken in childhood and love, and now only in solitary dreams.
Years of being a Restavek have taught Lovely never to cry, never to voice her needs, her pain. Her hunger withers and her dreams of escape wilt in the darkness of every passing night. The sun rises each day and with it, she listlessly follows the hopeless path to the water pump, to the market.. Her sole resolve, as she marches through the hostile streets of the crumbling city, her young eyes falling on disease, hunger, injury, death... to not let her life get any worse.
  • Dish of maize and beans, locally known as tchen tchen, a Creole name which comes from the french ‘Tiens, tiens’, which means ‘Take, take’.. In the past, this was ordered at the slaves by the French when giving them their daily rations, the dish thus adopted the name.
** Carrefour Feuilles is a very large slum in Port-au-Prince, located on the side of the mount of Kenscoff.
*** Bannan is plantain and Pate is a Haitian pastry delicacy often filled with meat or fish.
**** Suburb of Port-au-Prince
***** The only form of ‘bus’ in Haiti. Basically a pick-up truck with a roof mounted on the back, and painted a multitude of bright colours, often stating thanks to God in Creole, or something like ‘Jusqu’ici l’Eternel nous a Secouru’... ‘Thus far, the Eternal has kept us alive’..

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Candle-lit Streets..

I’m sitting in the Port-au-Prince airport, waiting to board a flight to Miami, with dust in my hair from the motorbike ride here. We darted through the chaos of the traffic, the tent city near the airport, the roads covered in rubble and pools of unidentifiable brown water, with my big rucksack on my back, trying to keep my balance as we swerved around tap-taps and erratic drivers. I got my last view at the Port-au-Prince horizon, with its spectacular hills covered in people’s humble dwellings, the sun setting behind the southern mount, projecting that unique beautiful dusty light, warming the tones of the colorful streets after another day of harsh, bright sunlight. As we drove, I imagined what the streets would look like in a few hours, still buzzing with people, lit only by the vendors’ candle light lining the roads, as they sit with their wares, fruit, veg, gum, shoes, pills, rice, books, clothes, charcoal.. I imagined the strong, thick darkness that exists here, and the silhouettes of people against car headlights, or mounds of burning trash, creating a smokey hue and adding an element of disaster, of urgency to what Haitians will view as just another evening, just another day in this difficult, hostile place. I imagined that a little later, after I’ve gone, the streets will be deserted, around 9 o’clock, as people will be tucked deep inside the winding, tight streets of the cluttered housing, with their doors well locked, going outside only if absolutely necessary, fearing and knowing that at night, the bandits and the wild dogs, rule the streets.

The waiting room is small and full of people, with different airlines operating from one small gate. The airport was completely destroyed nearly 2 years ago in the earthquake and the system they’ve had here is makeshift, with a wooden wall skirting the cluttered seating, behind which is loud banging, as they are rebuilding their airport, rebuilding the country, slowly, rebuilding their lives. I am sitting here knowing that the next few hours will be my last this year as a white minority among the people around me. My constant attempted creole inner-dialogue will fade, and the comfort of the warm air will leave me, as I will pile on layers of warm clothing to soften the blow, the shock of being back in Europe in the mid winter.
I’ll be safe again. Safe on the roads, safe in my home (well, my father’s home), safe from people trying to rip me off, safe from always fearing what I eat will make me sick, safe from the mosquitos, the most persistently annoying creatures in the world, safe from the treacherous pavements in the dark and the frequent giant open sewers which are so easy to step in and fall ten feet down, safe from the discomfort of having to refuse or ignore beggars, to turn away from obviously needy people reaching out their hands for me to help them.. I won’t feel like the stupid looking rediculous blanc everywhere I go, doing things backwards, a walking joke. I’ll wear make-up again and blow-dry my hair.
But this promise of organized society, of safety, doesn’t bring me comfort. It just makes me feel sad to leave Haiti, a place where doing the simplest thing is a huge challenge.. But it’s a challenge that I love. And I can’t wait to come back, not just for the thrill of living in such an exciting, shocking environment, but also, well mostly because, when I am here, what little effect I am having around me, I know that I am doing everything I can to help some of the poorest people in the world. I haven’t found a fluid channel through which to help the children of Haiti trapped in slavery yet, and as frustrating as that is, I know I am doing everything I possibly can to make a positive impact in Haiti, giving all that I have within me to do this, to find a way to help, and that is both frustrating and deeply satisfying. The work that needs to be done here is so huge it makes you want to give up, but the work that needs to be done here is so huge I can not give up.
So it is with a heavy heart that I leave this island. Heavy with the burden of need here, and the love I have for the place. Heavy enough that I know I will be back here in the new year, I still have a lot to give before I give up.

A pi ta Ayiti Cheri x

My dear, dear friends..

To all of you who have been supporting me and following my progress, I want to let you know that I am flying to Amsterdam this evening because I have a little medical emergency I need to attend to, and do not want to risk treatment here in Haiti because of danger of infection etc..
I am going to stay there until January, and then return to Haiti on the 12th.
It is an annoying and expensive inconvenience, but, as many people have reminded me, I must put my health before all else.

Thank you all so much for your support and I'll keep you updated...

Xxx

TapTap!

Most Haitian people get around by TapTap.. These are basically pick-up trucks with a roof on the back, and decorated in beautiful bright colours and always have phrases painted all over them like "Jesus revient" (Jesus is coming) or "L'enfer est réel" (hell is real) or my personal favourite, "Jusqu'ici l'eternel nous a secouru" (this one is too poetic to translate, but roughly means: to this point, eternity has saved us)

It costs between 5 and 10 gourdes for a journey which is about 10-20 euro cents. People pile in and hang off the back of them. Once I got one and had to sit on some man's lap as he carefuly opened my bag without me noticing.. unluckily stumbling upon my stash of tampons and hair clips. Sometimes, like today, you have to kind of run up behind one and jump on while it's still moving, it's pretty fun. Then once on, people always point out the fact that I'm white.. as if I hadn't noticed!
The one I was on today broke down, as they often do, and as I sat there peering out of the back - with everyone around peering back at me - I saw a dude in a big straw hat fill up a bottle from a running sewer and drinking it. No kidding. Bonjour Cholera!
Anyway, then I got out and walked the rest of the way through the hot streets of Delmas, the area I live in, with people shouting "Blanc, blanc!" at me, and women holding their babies up to me, with their hands out asking for money.




The TapTap experience is cheap and fun.. but most foreigners are discouraged from riding them.. safer than a motorbike though!

Monday, November 28, 2011

Why Haiti..

It's occured to me that many of you may not know why I really came to Haiti, why I have wanted to come here for so long. It has come to my attention, through the unbelievable support I've been getting that many of you reading my blog are probably not aware of my passion, the driving force that led me here to this difficult and fascinating place. So let me explain if you care to know.

The word is Restavek.  What does it mean? Well, it is a Creole noun that means 'stays with'. What does it really mean? I will tell you, but before I do I want you to promise to read my words with an open heart, a heart that truly feels the pain of this thing, it will hurt, but that is the manner in which I write about this and hope that it can be read with the same reality and human connection.

Each Restavek case is different, so I will tell you about the most common practices.
It all starts in rural Haiti. Poor families, with little to live off, many mouths to feed, and no money coming into to the household. Pretty much all schools in Haiti are private and fee paying, so kids from poor families will often not be able to attend - even though education here is very highly valued, and what little money comes in is often put towards school and uniforms etc over food.
Then one day, a lady comes to the house and offers about 2000gourds (approx 40euro) to take one of the children away and place them in a family in the city where they will be fed every day and sent to school in return for some household work. It must be noted here that there are no amenities in Haiti. People do not have washing machines, dishwashers, vacuum cleaners. No running water for washing, cleaning, cooking, drinking, flushing toilets, no electricity for light, for cooking, watching tv, charging their phones. No refuse collection, no postman, no social welfare. All the things that these machines and facilities do, need to be done manually, and it's pretty much a full time job.
So the lady (trafficker) takes this kid to Port-au-Prince, to a slum, and sells him/her to a poor (a little less poor than the child's family) for about 3000 to 4000gds (60 - 80 euro). This child is now a Restavek. A child staying with a family that is not his/her own. Restaveks can be boys or girls (more girls, but not by much) and usually aged 5-14 years old - they can be younger, they can be older.
When they arrive in the new environment, they are forced to work day and night. They perform all the household tasks, walk to and from the water pump many times a day, in their bare feet, wearing filthy rags, as they wash their new "family's" clothes. Haitians dress very proudly, always in pristine clothes. 80% of these restaveks are physically abused daily, they often display many scars. And approx 80% of the girl restaveks, and some of the boys too, are repeatedly sexually abused, often rented out to the neighbours too.
They are not fed any food other than the scraps, when there are some, of the food they have prepared for the family. They are not sent to school as promised either, sometimes allowed to go occasionally when all the work is completed, but this is pointless as they will always stay too far behind to make any progress.
Haitian kitchen
They have no place to sleep. They will crawl under the bed, or kitchen table, or find a little corner to put their head down. They have to stay up long after everyone is asleep and get up long before anyone wakes.
This is Slavery. There are about 300 000 restaveks in Haiti.
Many run away and they become one of the hundreds of thousands of street kids. They grow up, join gangs, commit crimes and often end up getting killed.

I spoke to a guy from The International Organisation on Migration (IOM) the other day who told me about a recent case where a 14 year old restavek got pregnant after being raped, and the 'mother' in the household gave her an abortive tea which killed her as it comprised mainly of rat-killer. There is no system of prosecution for cases like these. No system of protection for these children.

Haiti has so many problems. It had a multitude of unsurmountable problems before the earthquake, and now, millions are still displaced and homeless, thousands are dying of cholera.. The list of priorities to help Haiti is endless.. and restaveks are nowhere near the top.

But they are at the top for me. They are the reason I am here, and the reason I chose to dedicate my life to contributing to the development of this country. For me, this isn't a short trip, to do my time of volunteering and to return to my life.. this is my life, it is a path I chose 4 years ago when I first learnt that these kids existed, when I decided i refuse to live in a world where this exists, and therefore will do everything in my power to stop it. Bit unrealistic, I know, but one can dream?

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Timoun yo

Vaina had just pushed another kid out of the way before plastering a big smile on her face for the picture..


Ismaelle and Methaida, so sweet / so cheeky!

Vaina showing off her art work.. and herself.

Timoun yo

As much as I try to slip by unnoticed, this gang follow me all around the neighbourhood..

Her mum is called Lovely :)

They look cute... bu they're a HANDFUL!! Ha ha

It started to get out of hand and they got angry...

Some were a little confused...

Others were born to be in front of the lens, he he!